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March 18 2017

LED Project Show And Tell Night

The theme for March’s second member meeting was LED Project Show And Tell

March 14 2017

03-25-2017 OSSINT Micro Expressions & SE

OSSINT Micro Expressions & SE            Misgizmo will give a presentation about Open Source Intelligence, Micro Expressions and Social Engineering. This presentation will cover the use of OSSINT & Micro expressions to successfully, perform Social Engineering attacks. Social Engineering is defined as: Social engineering, in the context of information security, refers […]

“Digit” Sensors

Knitted Finger Sensor from Jesse Seay on Vimeo.

I machine-knit these finger sleeves from a conductive yarn that changes resistance as the knit is stretched.

With this project, I wanted to design a glove that could be machine-knit for workshops cheaply and quickly, making a wearable bend sensor available to people with no textile skills.

With a range of sleeve sizes, users can select the sleeve with the best fit and resistance range for each digit. We attach flexible silicone wires by means of a snap press, and the wearer then sews the wire in place with a tapestry needle and yarn — very easy!  Once the sleeve is finished, the user can use the tapestry needle to easily sew the wire leads in place along a fingerless glove.

Get your own “digit” sensor at the PS:One workshop on March 25. Details and RSVP on Meetup.  (Workshop fee: $10.)

Jenna Boyles, Kyle Werle, and Christine Shallenberg beta-tested the sensors at Pumping Station: One. They selected sleeves for fit, then stitched on the wires themselves. Kyle and Christine were able to use the sensors to control an analog synth and a processing sketch.

More details here.

Reposted byAndi Andi

March 11 2017

2017-03-12 PiDay

Denne søndagen arrangerer vi Pi Day på verkstedet i 2 etg på biblioteket!
Ta med deg din Raspberry Pi og møte likesinnede, eller bare stikk innom hvis du ikke vet helt hva dette er for noe..

RPi Zero W

March 10 2017

Bits & Bytes

March 08 2017

Robot Mini Sumo

We now have a Robot Mini Sumo League!

So what is Mini Robot Sumo? Well it is a sport in which two robots attempt to push each other out of a circle, very much in the same way as the sport of sumo. Our league is for Mini Sumo Bots, which must weigh less than 500g and fit in a 100mm x 100mm box.

Our league nights are the second Wednesday of each month as part of our robotics night.

The post Robot Mini Sumo appeared first on fizzPOP.

March 07 2017

Engineers Week – Night of Talks





As part of Engineers Week we are running a Night of Short Talks in TOG on Thursday 9th of  March kicking off at 7:30pm. The night will be made up of a number of talks on a range of topics. 


Title: Car Computer Hacking

Speaker: Daniel Cussen

Many people are afraid to meddle with their cars often due to the fear of a complicated computer running under the hood with no easy way to see what the computer is thinking or doing. We unveil the computer and show low cost interfaces and easy ways to diagnose and repair faults along with modifications and DIY servicing and upgrades. Take the fear out of automotive repair and avoid costly dealer maintenance and repair all using free apps and Bluetooth and USB interfaces. We will also discuss diesel-gate and emissions monitoring.

Title: Google Tango Technology

Speaker: Gleb Lebedev

An overview on Google Tango technology – how it works and what applications it may have. As an example I’ll show a game I made for the Global Game Jam 2017 that uses Tango for positional tracking.

Title :A Maker journey – From The Start

Speaker: Peter Knief

 A collage of the objects that Peter has created and how he developed his personal maker skills and experience with no budget. 

Title : The power of Maths when making 3D Designs 

Speaker: Izabela Siudak




March 06 2017


03-11-2017 Click all the links, and run it live! An introduction to responding to Malware

Click all the links, and run it live!  An introduction to responding to Malware Remember that time that someone didn’t click on a phishing link?  Me neither. Config will give an introduction to Incident Response, focused on the triage and identification of malware commonly found in phishing and drive-by attacks. We will go over what […]

March 05 2017

Coloring Book Adventure

I am making a coloring book.  The way is fraught with fears, doubts, and time eating mechanical failuresFears of being unable to make my goals.  Doubt that my art is worth the investment of strangers.  Battles with an old scanner not being compatible with my computer.  Then a crashed computer bios that corrupted my RAID drive.  I lost a lot of files.  But I am winning.  I am winning thanks to very good friends who encouraged my talents.  I am winning with the support of my very wonderful family that helped me in times of need. I am winning because of my tenacity in the face of problems.  It is only a matter of time in this book battle of attrition.  “Today I Draw Dragons” will be a thing.

I will encourage you too to tread the path of book making.  Be not daunted by the endless tasks before you.

This project began when I started to draw dragons before work and then after work.  I began to count them.  I told myself that when I made thirty five of them I would pursue making them into a coloring book. I ended up making one hundred and fourteen of them.

I shopped around for publishers.  It is a sea of frustration.  You have your easiest ride if you can wrestle the support of a professional publishing company, but they will have a say in your product and it is hard to convince them that you are worth it.  So I decided to pursue self publishing, at least for now.  If I prove myself with a successful project, then I will show them what I can do.

None of this is the way to wealth but it is the way of artists.

Knittin’ Kitten

I learned many things.  I learned that even if I print only 30 dragon images it will be considered a 60 pages plus book to a printer even if I don’t print on both sides of the sheet of paper.  If you have a place to store 1000 books and the cash to buy and ship them then you might be able to get them printed for a competitive price.  ISBN numbers are expensive if you buy just one.

Advertising matters.  My Kickstarter shows a definite lull in support when my computer crashed and I could not reason out how to advertise without my scanned and worked drawings.  My friends and family took up the slack then.  I continued.  I made business cards and flyers to paint the town.  I wish I had done more.  But I am still winning.

Cleaning up and re-working scans for print TWICE is annoying.

I have an external hard drive now so I can back up the back ups.

planned cover image

Learning all the programs for formatting everything for print is a huge pain in my pinky toe.

I still have many tasks ahead.  I need to subscribe to a download service so that I can deliver my PDF. files.  I need to secure a high quality printer for the prints I have sold.  I need to prepare to wrap and mail out my books.  I need to make all the custom sketch cards and commissioned art sold to fund this endeavor.  I will need a plan in place to sell the extra copies I am going to order.  And I need to draw more, lots more.

This will not be my last publishing adventure, by far.

There are still a few more days if you want a copy of the book yourself:

“Today I Draw Dragons” By Shelly Loke

My Kickstarter Ends March 8th, but that is really just barely the beginning.  I hope to see your adventuresome projects up here too, soon.

Dragon Making Toast in the Style of the Ancients


March 03 2017

March 02 2017

Maker Faire UK 2017

 We are off to Newcastle. \o/ . We are excited at being accepted to Maker Faire UK. This will be our 5th year showing casing at the event. Our April would just not be the same without it. 

This year the plan is to showcase a constellation umbrella made by Robert along with other members projects. If you are in Newcastle be sure to stop by on the 1st or 2nd for a duck and hackerspace stamp.

March 01 2017

Shareable Biome

Visit To Fab Lab Limerick

The latest Fab Foundation Ireland network meeting took place in Fab Lab Limerick last weekend. The meeting is a chance for all the current fablabs and emerging labs to learn from each other by exchanging their experiences and learning. While there, we had a nice look around all the great equipment on offer in Limerick. 

Shopbot CNC

Huge 3D Printer

Lasersaur just like us 🙂

Check out all the photos from our visit in our gallery

Drossel von Flügel Cosplay Project

After months of work, hours of troubleshooting 3D printers and lasers, as well as a lot of patience, I’m proud to present my completed cosplay mask of gynoid Drossel von Flügel. My friend Jaina helped me take pictures at Katsucon last weekend in National Harbor. (Yes, the same convention center, unfortunately)

Note: almost all images can be clicked for full size.

Skylar at Katsucon dressed as Drossel with a hoodie that says "I HEART HUMANS"

Skylar at Katsucon dressed as Drossel with a hoodie that says "I HEART HUMANS"










ByNEET's 3D model of Drossel Sky's picture of her Drossel Figma

A picture of the Drossel mask with the Drossel Figma next to it for reference I HEART HUMANS sweater with blue heart

I have received no shortage of help from various people. The CNC department at Pumping Station: One has been great at supporting those who want to make things. Twitter user @ByNEET released a full model of Drossel which my friend Faraday (she does 3D work! fortunafaradaze at gmail dot com) helped disassemble for conversion into 3d print friendly STL files. My friends who spent countless late nights with me while I worked on this project. My mom, who was very helpful in assembling the mounts to hold it on my head at the last minute. My friend Amir, who introduced me to Pumping Station: One which has made a huge impact on me. Lastly, the PS:One community itself, for maintaining such a wonderful place to create and share as a community.

Below the read-more is a fairly detailed explanation on how I created the mask and what tools I used for those who are interested in pursing similar projects. Feel free to contact me (Skylar) with questions at SKY at TUNA dot SH or find me at the space! I also have a (photography) website,

Click the read more below!

A little backstory:

Before I joined PS:One, I often went to conventions to take photography of cosplayers. It was always interesting to see all the different methods people used to create cosplays, from simple costumes to full on exoskeleton suits of armor. I had always wanted to cosplay, but a lack of time and the daunting prospect of being on display caused the idea to be put on the back-burner.

Of course, until I found Pumping Station: One.

The first day I stepped into the space, I saw the potential to create many cool things. On the top of my priority list? COSPLAY. The idea to cosplay Drossel stemmed largely from my interest in robots and science fiction.

About Drossel:

Drossel herself is from an obscure series of shorts produced by Disney Japan. She’s a gynoid in a future where it’s implied she is the last of her kind in a war against humanity, a war she has forgotten the reasoning behind (or just doesn’t care). Despite being 4000 years old, she’s pretty quirky and just wants to get along with humans. Of course, for the sake of the shorts, this results in antics. Interestingly, despite the show being made in Japan, Drossel’s name and model implies she is of German origins. I plan to add the correct German decals with vinyl in a future version of the cosplay.

Now for the actual information on the cosplay:

This cosplay was made with many tools and from many materials. There have actually been 4 versions of the mask created since I started working on this project.

  • Version 1 was made of thermoformed acrylic shaped on a wooden laser cut base.
  • Version 2 was 3D printed in ABS and turned out decently despite having trouble with printing consistency. I planned to smooth it using Bondo, but applied way too much to the mask. Sanding it down proved to be very difficult. I may use this version for decorative purposes in the future due to its weight.
  • Version 3 was 3D printed in PLA and turned out much smoother and consistent than the ABS. The mask from this version was actually damaged when attempting to fiberglass it. In retrospect, the attempt at fiberglass was unnecessary. Try, try again.
  • Version 4 was an attempt to print another PLA based mask, but some of the parts got damaged when gluing them together. Aligning the parts is quite difficult since there isn’t a good place to clamp them together.
  • Version 3.5 was the actual final mask in this post. I actually went into my garage on a very cold day, and in a last ditch effort to finish this, I actually just ripped the fiberglass off version 3. And to my surprise (although it really wasn’t applied properly) the fiberglass came off cleanly. Aside from some uneven fiberglass resin on the edges, the mask was basically intact.

The hoodie and other elements:

The hoodie was made using heat transfer film with the vinyl cutter and the heat press. Under the mask I wore a MorphSuit black mask so that I could see out but nobody could see in. Decent visibility indoors and in daylight. However, it had pretty bad visibility outside at night. I also used white silk opera gloves for the hands. There were supposed to be black finger-less tactical gloves over that to add to the effect, but I was unable to find them before I left. Still hunting for them!

Tools, materials and software used in Version 3.5:

  • Tools
    • LulzBot Taz3 3D printer with 0.5mm extruder
    • Epilog Engraving Laser
    • Circular sander
    • Soldering iron
    • Volt meter
    • Hot glue gun
    • Caulk gun
    • Popsicle sticks (for mixing)
    • Mixing cups
    • Cotton swabs (for cleaning misapplications)
    • Clamps (lots of clamps (can’t get enough))
  • Materials
    • 3MM white PLA (Inland brand)
    • Clear cast acrylic sheeting (1/4th inch) (from Inventables)
    • Solder
    • Hot glue
    • Black silicone (should be adhesive, I accidentally purchased flexible silicone, will touch on that later)
    • Superglue (regular super glue)
    • Two part epoxy
    • Bondo All-Purpose Putty
    • “XTC-3D”  3D part smoother epoxy (fancy epoxy really, but it works)
    • Krylon White Semi-Gloss Dual Paint & Primer
    • Krylon High-Gloss UV-Resistant Clear Coating
    • DAP Dynaflex 230 10.1 oz. Premium Indoor/Outdoor Sealant (INCORRECT PRODUCT TO USE!)
    • Hot glue (a lot of hot glue)
    • IKEA DIODER flexible strip with controller
    • “AA” battery holders
    • 8 “AA” batteries
    • Heat-shrink tubing
    • High-Density Foam Tape for insulating doors
    • Whiteout
  • Software
    • Repiter-Host (for the Taz3)
    • Slic3r
    • Metasequoia 3D
    • Maya
    • Netfabb
    • Illustrator

A general walkthrough in creating the mask:

The mask started with discovering a 3D model that @ByNEET  had created and released. The model was basically a replica of the 3D model in the show. It was originally created in Metasequoia, so I had to download a trial and convert the file to .OBJ for increased compatibility. From here, my friend Faraday (whose contact info is above in the post) disassembled the face plate and forehead from the model for conversion to STL. I used Slic3r to scale the parts up and Netfabb to clean and then break them into smaller chunks for 3d printing. Unfortunately we didn’t have any printers large enough to do one big print.

Drossel mask in Slic3r Drossel mask in Netfabb Drossel mask in repetier

Once I had files I could actually feed to the slicing software, I used Repiter-Host with Slic3r to actually slice the files into g-code from the printer. After some trial and error, I got 6 excellent quality PLA pieces that needed to be assembled. It probably took over 20 hours to print all 6 pieces over a week of nightly printing. I ended up printing the PLA at 200C with a 0.28mm layer thickness. At higher temps I frequently had over-extrusion issues on the Taz. As I mentioned earlier, I went with PLA because it produced more consistent results with considerably less warping and virtually no over-extrusion affecting the smoothness of the layers.

I aligned and glued the pieces together with super glue (very carefully) and let them dry overnight. I then filled any excess spacing with epoxy. The superglue was just to get everything set in place, and the epoxy was to help make a lasting and slightly flexible bond to support the superglue. The final assembled 3D prints had very minimal unevenness. I took the mask home and started applying Bondo to it very lightly to help smooth the mask further. I originally chose Bondo because it was not too difficult to work with, but in the future I’m going to see if I can get away with using XTC-3D exclusively, because the Bondo risks making an uneven surface, even if it is completely flat. It’s much easier to work with XTC-3D due to its lower viscosity, although there may be other epoxies that work just as well.

At this point, since this is version 3, I attempted to fiberglass it. I’m going to jump over this part since it didn’t turn out as expected. I may revisit the idea for other props in the future, but for this specific application it was inappropriate. I suppose you don’t need fiberglass if the print itself ends up being the base.

After ripping the fibreglass off, I picked the mask up again as version 3.5. I sanded some of the fiberglass resin off and took it back to PS:One where I cleaned it up and applied XTC-3D epoxy for smoothing 3D prints. Its really just a fancy epoxy, but it does a good job of smoothing and is fairly priced.

By the way, ALWAYS use gloves when dealing with epoxy, and use a smock, or clothes you don’t like. I learned this the moderately hard way. I am determined to not learn it again. Also, use a fine filter mask when sanding down epoxy. You really don’t want to breathe it in.

Drossel mask being prepped for XTC-3D application Drossel mask after initial XTC-3D application, shiny Drossel mask after initial XTC-3D application, sanded down

I applied 3 layers of XTC-3D in an attempt to smooth out defects and resin. It ended up coming out fairly nice all things considered. I sanded it a bit more and prepped it for spray painting.

To spray-paint it, I used a couple layers of “Krylon White Semi-Gloss Dual Paint & Primer” and then clear coated it with two layers of “Krylon High-Gloss UV-Resistant Clear Coating“. The paint plus primer was a faster alternative to priming and painting individually, since the surface underneath was already mostly neutral colors. With a protective high gloss clear coat added, I was able to achieve the level of gloss I wanted. Note: I wore a protective mask during this process, along with gloves. Safety first!

Drossel mask before painting, area prepped with garbage bag Drossel mask after painting with the dual paint/primer, decently shiny, very white Drossel mask after clear coating, very shiny, very white

After successfully painting it, I took measurements to cut the eyes out on the laser. I estimated the size of the acrylic I’d need by taking measurements and the narrowest and widest sections of the eyes. It wasn’t the most accurate measurement method, but it did achieve the desired results. I used multiple layers of acrylic that was held together by epoxy in order to create the lights. It improved visibility by preventing light leakage in the direction of my face and into the mask itself. I then sealed the acrylic into the mask itself with a lot of black silicone (originally intended to block light AND act as an adhesive) and a lot of hot glue (to support the flexible silicone). During this process I also took the time to adhere fabric clips with epoxy. These would be used to attach the mask to the straps holding it to my head.

testing the eye sizing with wood Sealing the eye cutouts with epoxy

Sealing the acrylic eyes in with silicone Drossel Mask Support Structure, multiple straps to hold it against the head

The LED flexible strip was simply wrapped around both lenses and came out looking pretty good! I then assembled the two halves using door insulation strips, fabric, fabric tape, and a staple gun. I hacked it together under a time constraint with my mom (who, thank goodness, is a professional in the world of sewing) and all things considered we got the mask to securely hold together. The mask was held to my head by 5 interconnected straps, four of which attached to the contact points on four sides of the mask. The fifth attached to the forehead piece with staples. It made it pretty easy to put on and take off. The only addition to the mask was a 4 inch thick block of foam inside of the forehead to raise the mask up on my face, and to add some foam for the bridge of my nose. These were attached with hot glue.

Side note: The mask was originally supposed to use two way acrylic mirrors in the eyes, but lacking the time to test, I ended up going with the MorphSuit mask to hide my eyes instead. It worked pretty effectively, but I plan to test the two way mirrored acrylic soon!

Drossel mask with completed LEDs lit up blue Drossel mask as one piece with LEDs offDrossel mask as one piece with LEDs on

One complete robot mask! I used whiteout to touch up some damage the mask incurred while being moved. It fit on my head quite snugly. In fact, too snug. I found out that I couldn’t breathe in it when I got to the con! I plan to add some sort of air cooling and/or liquid cooling to the mask so that I don’t die of heat stroke, and the lenses don’t fog up. I was able to do limited photo shoots in it, but it’s rather unbearable with the hoodie.

Now for the electronics: 

Soldering the battery packs together  Testing the battery pack Testing the battery pack one more time

The IKEA DIODER strip required 12V, and due to time constraints, I simply wired up a AA battery pack to provide about 12V, two sets of four batteries in parallel. I simply carried it in my backpack. I hope to redesign this to use rechargeable cells that can last a significant amount of time, although I haven’t had to replace the batteries in this yet. Eventually I would like to replace this with an Arduino powered flexible LED strip with much cleaner wiring. I’d also probably add some glove buttons so that I could change the colors on demand from either red, to rainbow, or others.

In summary:

This was my first major project at PS:One and despite the many setbacks I came across, I persevered and completed it! However, the project isn’t truly over, as I’d like to not only create a cleaner version of the mask with everything I’ve learned, but I’d like to make the entire suit. It’s quite a daunting task, but I’m learning Fusion 360 and hope to have a pretty decent draft soon.

I hope this guide inspires and benefits anyone else looking to make stuff at PS:One! I had a lot of fun making this and I’ll be displaying it at the member meeting tonight (2/28).

I will also be attending Maker Faire in April with the mask on display!

Once again, feel free to reach out with my contact info if you have any questions, or you have your own project and are looking for some input. I’d be happy to offer whatever advice I can.


Lovelace Space

A new makerspace is on the scene in Dublin, Lovelace Space. The space is named after Ada Lovelace, the mathematician, writer and world’s first computer programmer. The space is still in the planing stage but that is not stopping them from hosting their first event this weekend in the Black Sheep pub.  You can read about their cross stitch workshop on their website.

This new space joins a vibrant community of spaces and fablabs across this island. You can read about some of them in the links below.

February 28 2017

Will Knott In The National Finals of Famelab Ireland

Our very own Will Knott has made it into the national finals of Famelab Ireland after giving a very entertaining talk at the Cork heats. Famelab is a global science communication competition that brings people from all backgrounds to just 3 minutes to convey a scientific concept of their choice. 

Check out Will’s talk below about “how he destroyed a planet”.


See Will and all the other finalists on the Thursday 13 April, 6.30pm, in the Science Gallery Dublin.

February 27 2017

ShopBot Furniture Making by a Woodwork Dilletante

February 26 2017

Pizza Oven Rev 3

Back in our Chancery Lane days we made a very successful pizza oven. It became a regular feature of our monthly Open Socials. In late 2015 we moved to our fantastic new space in Blackpitts. One thing we don’t have in Blackpitts is our own dedicated outside yard. We can do things outside, but it is a shared car park so we can’t leave things out there. This means that we’ve had to build our oven every time and take it down again, for special occasions like our annual birthday party or summer post-Dublin Maker BBQ.

So its been on the to-do list for some time, to make a portable version that we can wheel in and out as required. We started the process yesterday to build a molded dome from lightweight concrete. There are lots of plans on line for this using a gym ball as a former. We’ll be working on it over the next few weeks. Drop in and have a look.

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