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## March282017

### 2017-04-01 Loddekurs

HackBergen arrangerer vårens loddekurs

Alle får lage en krets som de får med seg når kurset er over. Du lærer ikke bare lodding, men også litt elektronikk og hvordan du kan teste kretser uten å lodde.

Kurset holdes på Bergen Offentlige Bibliotek i Verkstedet. Verkstedet er i 2. etasje bak amfiet i Urom. Vi starter klokken 11 og gir oss ca kl 15.

Vi stiller med nødvendig utstyr og verktøy.

Deltagere under 16 år må ha med seg en voksen, som også må delta på kurset.

Meld dere på her: https://www.deltager.no/loddekurs_01042017

## March272017

Iconic alt-art space Machine Project launching retrospective book with a free ‘extravaganza’

### NERP Tonite: Replicape rev B!

Tonight at NERP, Elias Bakken of Intelligent Agent AS and Thing-printer, in Oslo, Norway, will tell us about the Replicape rev B. [http://wiki.thing-printer.com/index.php?title=Replicape_rev_B]

“Replicape is a high end 3D-printer electronics package in the form of
the Major revision B. It has five high power and low noise stepper
motors with cool running MosFets and it has been designed to fit in
small spaces without active cooling and without the need for physical
trim or switches to flip.”

NERP is not exclusively Raspberry Pi, the small computer and embedded systems interest group at Pumping Station:One in Chicago. NERP meets every other Monday at 7pm at Pumping Station:One, 3519 N. Elston Ave. in Chicago. Find NERP and Pumping Station:One at
http:// www.meetup.com/NERP-Not-Exclusively-Raspberry-Pi/
and
http://pumpingstationone.org/
Doors open at 6:30pm. NERP is free and open to the public. Ed Bennett ed @ kinetics and electronics com Tags: electronics, embedded, NERP, Open Source, raspberry pi, hackerspace, Beagle Bone, Pumping Station One

## March262017

Laser cut Fractal Puzzle

## March252017

If you’re not familiar with the Power Racing Series, it’s a challenge to build and race an electric vehicle. You start with a Power Wheels car and transform it into a powerful machine that can transport a human, and oh yeah, you have a budget of only $500. (Pictured above is a car made by some 15 year old kids a few years ago for Maker Faire Detroit!) You can find super-cheap (and even free) used Power Wheels cars on craigslist, and usually the batteries are dead and there’s no charger, which doesn’t matter, because we replace all that with more powerful motors, batteries, motor controllers, brakes, etc. One of the goals of the series has been to get high school age kids involved, but some of the skills needed to build a car may be out of reach of your local high school, such as working with metal. Welding equipment may not be available, and mentors may not have metalworking skills, so we wanted to develop a reference vehicle that uses no welding. We chose to mainly work with wood for our build, but check out the “no-weld car” wiki page for some other builds… Here’s the start of our frame. It’s all wood, glue, and screws. We’ve utilized a torsion box design for strength. So far we’ve only used a saw, drill, and some clamps. No specialty tools that are out of the reach of your common workshop. We’ve got a long way to go, but we’re going to try to make this car super-cheap, and easy to build, so that many teams (of kids and/or adults) could easily build it. As members of a makerspace, we may tend to forget that not everyone has access to the tools and skills we do. We’re also working on front wheel spindles build using wood and bolts. Yes, you can buy metal spindles for cheap, but a lot of what we are doing is experimenting with materials and geometry, which should provide some valuable lessons along the way, and it should be cheap/easy to modify things, try-test-try again, and see what the outcome is. You can check out more about this project on the Milwaukee Makerspace wiki. We’ll do our best to add updates as we go. Hopefully this thing will be ready to race in June at Maker Faire Kansas City! ## March232017 ### Banker’s Box Storage Plans For years, our makerspace has used a hodgepodge of solutions for storing members’ projects in progress and other personal belongings. Most recently, we’ve used a dozen or so plastic totes. The totes worked great, but were limited in quantity (they were industrial waste, and no more matching totes were available) so that not everyone could have one. Additionally, these totes were slightly trapezoidal, which wasted quite a bit of space between them. To that end, Ben and Kevin undertook a project to convert personal storage to standard Letter/Legal Banker’s Boxes, which are readily available and pack more densely. They are a bit smaller than the totes we were using, but most members totes weren’t full, and we can store twice as many boxes in the same space. Read on for full plans and assembly instructions. Ben’s initial sketch was nothing fancy, so he drew it up in Sketchup, and developed a full cutting plan. The entire shelving unit is 2 sheets of 23/32″ plywood and 2 sheets of 1/8″ MDF, both readily available at the local home improvement store. The instructions below are split into “cutting” and “assembly”. Without going into painful detail, you’re going to need some power tools to make this project happen. We used a table saw with a dado stack, a circular saw, an air nailer, and a router with flush trim bit, among other things. You could certainly get by with less, but these plans were made and instructions written given the tools we had available. Without further ado, the instructions. # Cutting Instructions ## Breaking down the sheet goods First, using a circular saw and straight-edge (if your table saw setup is big enough to make these cuts, go for it, but you probably don’t need my instructions – just print the cut list and have at it). • Trim the end off of Sheet 1 at 90-1/2″ and set it aside. This offcut will become the toe kick, but we’ll make that cut later on a table saw for accuracy. • Cut Sheet 2 into two parts 42-3/4″ long, bringing the first six shelves to final length. • Cut two sections off of Sheet 4 to become dividers. I chose to put the waste in the center and keep two factory edges, which means we can cut these pretty rough and clean the size up on the table saw later. ## Cutting shelves and dividers to depth Next, set the table saw fence to 15-7/8″. Once this is set, don’t move it until absolutely necessary – we’ll be switching around between tools for a bit, but when we come back to the table saw, we’ll want our parts to be exactly this same length. • Use this setup to rip one pair of shelves out of Sheet 1 and six more shelves out of the pieces from Sheet 2. • Cut the pieces of Sheet 4 into strips, being careful to orient the material correctly (at a glance it doesn’t take much to get the pieces rotated 90 degrees). ## Cut the remaining shelves to length Next, go back to the circular saw and cut the conjoined shelves from Sheet 1 to 42-3/4″ length. ## Making shelf dados Mount a 23/32″ or 3/4″ bit in the router and set the cut depth to 1/4″. Cut the grooves across the side panels every 12-1/4″, starting with the bottom of the first groove 4″ from one end of the panels. This end is now the bottom. ## Separating the sides Back to the table saw, still set to 15-7/8″, and rip the side panels to their final width. We’re finally done with this fence setting. ## Finish the dividers Now use the table saw to cut the divider panels to their final 11-3/4″ height. ## Making divider dados Now we need to cut 1/8″ wide, 1/8″ deep dados in the shelves, starting 14-1/4″ in from each end. Six middle shelves will be grooved on both sides, but the top and bottom shelves only need grooves on one side. We can do this with a 1/8″ kerf blade in a table saw, using a miter gauge to support the parts, or with a router and a 1/8″ bit. The router is probably the safer option, but those tiny router bits are expensive, fragile, and slow. ## Building the toe kick • Set the table saw for 4″ and turn the offcut from Sheet 1 into a toe kick. • We’ll also want to cut it to 43-1/2″ length with a miter saw. • Use a jig saw to cut a 4″ tall, 3-23/32″ deep (or 4″ deep for simplicity; nobody will know) notch into each side panel, making sure to make mirror images, not identical panels. # Assembly Instructions 1. Apply glue to the dados in one side panel, and stand it up on end. If you stand it face-down (with the toe kick notch to the floor), Step 8 will be easier. 2. Nail or screw a shelf into one of the middle dados so the pieces will stand on their own. 3. Insert the remaining shelves into that side panel and nail them in place. 4. Position the second side panel and apply glue to the dados. 5. Stand the second side panel up and start guiding the shelves into position. It helps to have a second set of hands for this. 6. Nail the second side panel into the shelves. 7. Measure the diagonals and bump the case into square, then take a break for the glue to start setting up. 8. Apply glue to the back edges of the shelves and side panels. This is way easier if you built the shelf face-down. 9. Drop the (still oversized) back panel into position and nail it in place all around the outside of the cabinet. 10. Use a flush-trim router bit to cut the back panel to fit. 11. Flip the cabinet over, then glue and nail the toe kick to the side panels and bottom shelf. 12. Insert the dividers between shelves. ## March222017 The 8th Annual Interactive Show: Call For Projects ## March202017 21 Ways to Describe Laughter ## March282017 ### 2017-04-01 Loddekurs HackBergen arrangerer vårens loddekurs Alle får lage en krets som de får med seg når kurset er over. Du lærer ikke bare lodding, men også litt elektronikk og hvordan du kan teste kretser uten å lodde. Kurset holdes på Bergen Offentlige Bibliotek i Verkstedet. Verkstedet er i 2. etasje bak amfiet i Urom. Vi starter klokken 11 og gir oss ca kl 15. Vi stiller med nødvendig utstyr og verktøy. Deltagere under 16 år må ha med seg en voksen, som også må delta på kurset. Meld dere på her: https://www.deltager.no/loddekurs_01042017 ## March272017 Iconic alt-art space Machine Project launching retrospective book with a free ‘extravaganza’ ### NERP Tonite: Replicape rev B! Tonight at NERP, Elias Bakken of Intelligent Agent AS and Thing-printer, in Oslo, Norway, will tell us about the Replicape rev B. [http://wiki.thing-printer.com/index.php?title=Replicape_rev_B] “Replicape is a high end 3D-printer electronics package in the form of a Cape that can be placed on a BeagleBone Black. This page is about the Major revision B. It has five high power and low noise stepper motors with cool running MosFets and it has been designed to fit in small spaces without active cooling and without the need for physical access to the board once installed. That means no potentiometers to trim or switches to flip.” NERP is not exclusively Raspberry Pi, the small computer and embedded systems interest group at Pumping Station:One in Chicago. NERP meets every other Monday at 7pm at Pumping Station:One, 3519 N. Elston Ave. in Chicago. Find NERP and Pumping Station:One at http:// www.meetup.com/NERP-Not-Exclusively-Raspberry-Pi/ and http://pumpingstationone.org/ Doors open at 6:30pm. NERP is free and open to the public. Ed Bennett ed @ kinetics and electronics com Tags: electronics, embedded, NERP, Open Source, raspberry pi, hackerspace, Beagle Bone, Pumping Station One ## March262017 Laser cut Fractal Puzzle ## March252017 ### No welding? No PPPRoblemS! If you’re not familiar with the Power Racing Series, it’s a challenge to build and race an electric vehicle. You start with a Power Wheels car and transform it into a powerful machine that can transport a human, and oh yeah, you have a budget of only$500. (Pictured above is a car made by some 15 year old kids a few years ago for Maker Faire Detroit!)

You can find super-cheap (and even free) used Power Wheels cars on craigslist, and usually the batteries are dead and there’s no charger, which doesn’t matter, because we replace all that with more powerful motors, batteries, motor controllers, brakes, etc.

One of the goals of the series has been to get high school age kids involved, but some of the skills needed to build a car may be out of reach of your local high school, such as working with metal. Welding equipment may not be available, and mentors may not have metalworking skills, so we wanted to develop a reference vehicle that uses no welding. We chose to mainly work with wood for our build, but check out the “no-weld car” wiki page for some other builds…

Here’s the start of our frame. It’s all wood, glue, and screws. We’ve utilized a torsion box design for strength. So far we’ve only used a saw, drill, and some clamps. No specialty tools that are out of the reach of your common workshop. We’ve got a long way to go, but we’re going to try to make this car super-cheap, and easy to build, so that many teams (of kids and/or adults) could easily build it. As members of a makerspace, we may tend to forget that not everyone has access to the tools and skills we do.

We’re also working on front wheel spindles build using wood and bolts. Yes, you can buy metal spindles for cheap, but a lot of what we are doing is experimenting with materials and geometry, which should provide some valuable lessons along the way, and it should be cheap/easy to modify things, try-test-try again, and see what the outcome is.

You can check out more about this project on the Milwaukee Makerspace wiki. We’ll do our best to add updates as we go. Hopefully this thing will be ready to race in June at Maker Faire Kansas City!

## March232017

### Banker’s Box Storage Plans

For years, our makerspace has used a hodgepodge of solutions for storing members’ projects in progress and other personal belongings.  Most recently, we’ve used a dozen or so plastic totes.  The totes worked great, but were limited in quantity (they were industrial waste, and no more matching totes were available) so that not everyone could have one.  Additionally, these totes were slightly trapezoidal, which wasted quite a bit of space between them.

To that end, Ben and Kevin undertook a project to convert personal storage to standard Letter/Legal Banker’s Boxes, which are readily available and pack more densely.  They are a bit smaller than the totes we were using, but most members totes weren’t full, and we can store twice as many boxes in the same space.

Read on for full plans and assembly instructions.

Ben’s initial sketch was nothing fancy, so he drew it up in Sketchup, and developed a full cutting plan.  The entire shelving unit is 2 sheets of 23/32″ plywood and 2 sheets of 1/8″ MDF, both readily available at the local home improvement store.

The instructions below are split into “cutting” and “assembly”. Without going into painful detail, you’re going to need some power tools to make this project happen.  We used a table saw with a dado stack, a circular saw, an air nailer, and a router with flush trim bit, among other things.  You could certainly get by with less, but these plans were made and instructions written given the tools we had available. Without further ado, the instructions.

# Cutting Instructions

## Breaking down the sheet goods

First, using a circular saw and straight-edge (if your table saw setup is big enough to make these cuts, go for it, but you probably don’t need my instructions – just print the cut list and have at it).

• Trim the end off of Sheet 1 at 90-1/2″ and set it aside. This offcut will become the toe kick, but we’ll make that cut later on a table saw for accuracy.
• Cut Sheet 2 into two parts 42-3/4″ long, bringing the first six shelves to final length.
• Cut two sections off of Sheet 4 to become dividers. I chose to put the waste in the center and keep two factory edges, which means we can cut these pretty rough and clean the size up on the table saw later.

## Cutting shelves and dividers to depth

Next, set the table saw fence to 15-7/8″. Once this is set, don’t move it until absolutely necessary – we’ll be switching around between tools for a bit, but when we come back to the table saw, we’ll want our parts to be exactly this same length.

• Use this setup to rip one pair of shelves out of Sheet 1 and six more shelves out of the pieces from Sheet 2.
• Cut the pieces of Sheet 4 into strips, being careful to orient the material correctly (at a glance it doesn’t take much to get the pieces rotated 90 degrees).

## Cut the remaining shelves to length

Next, go back to the circular saw and cut the conjoined shelves from Sheet 1 to 42-3/4″ length.

Mount a 23/32″ or 3/4″ bit in the router and set the cut depth to 1/4″. Cut the grooves across the side panels every 12-1/4″, starting with the bottom of the first groove 4″ from one end of the panels. This end is now the bottom.

## Separating the sides

Back to the table saw, still set to 15-7/8″, and rip the side panels to their final width. We’re finally done with this fence setting.

## Finish the dividers

Now use the table saw to cut the divider panels to their final 11-3/4″ height.

Now we need to cut 1/8″ wide, 1/8″ deep dados in the shelves, starting 14-1/4″ in from each end. Six middle shelves will be grooved on both sides, but the top and bottom shelves only need grooves on one side. We can do this with a 1/8″ kerf blade in a table saw, using a miter gauge to support the parts, or with a router and a 1/8″ bit. The router is probably the safer option, but those tiny router bits are expensive, fragile, and slow.

## Building the toe kick

• Set the table saw for 4″ and turn the offcut from Sheet 1 into a toe kick.
• We’ll also want to cut it to 43-1/2″ length with a miter saw.
• Use a jig saw to cut a 4″ tall, 3-23/32″ deep (or 4″ deep for simplicity; nobody will know) notch into each side panel, making sure to make mirror images, not identical panels.

# Assembly Instructions

1. Apply glue to the dados in one side panel, and stand it up on end. If you stand it face-down (with the toe kick notch to the floor), Step 8 will be easier.
2. Nail or screw a shelf into one of the middle dados so the pieces will stand on their own.
3. Insert the remaining shelves into that side panel and nail them in place.
4. Position the second side panel and apply glue to the dados.
5. Stand the second side panel up and start guiding the shelves into position. It helps to have a second set of hands for this.
6. Nail the second side panel into the shelves.
7. Measure the diagonals and bump the case into square, then take a break for the glue to start setting up.
8. Apply glue to the back edges of the shelves and side panels. This is way easier if you built the shelf face-down.
9. Drop the (still oversized) back panel into position and nail it in place all around the outside of the cabinet.
10. Use a flush-trim router bit to cut the back panel to fit.
11. Flip the cabinet over, then glue and nail the toe kick to the side panels and bottom shelf.
12. Insert the dividers between shelves.

## March222017

The 8th Annual Interactive Show: Call For Projects

## March272017

Iconic alt-art space Machine Project launching retrospective book with a free ‘extravaganza’

### NERP Tonite: Replicape rev B!

Tonight at NERP, Elias Bakken of Intelligent Agent AS and Thing-printer, in Oslo, Norway, will tell us about the Replicape rev B. [http://wiki.thing-printer.com/index.php?title=Replicape_rev_B]

“Replicape is a high end 3D-printer electronics package in the form of
the Major revision B. It has five high power and low noise stepper
motors with cool running MosFets and it has been designed to fit in
small spaces without active cooling and without the need for physical
trim or switches to flip.”

NERP is not exclusively Raspberry Pi, the small computer and embedded systems interest group at Pumping Station:One in Chicago. NERP meets every other Monday at 7pm at Pumping Station:One, 3519 N. Elston Ave. in Chicago. Find NERP and Pumping Station:One at
http:// www.meetup.com/NERP-Not-Exclusively-Raspberry-Pi/
and
http://pumpingstationone.org/
Doors open at 6:30pm. NERP is free and open to the public. Ed Bennett ed @ kinetics and electronics com Tags: electronics, embedded, NERP, Open Source, raspberry pi, hackerspace, Beagle Bone, Pumping Station One

## March262017

Laser cut Fractal Puzzle

## March252017

### No welding? No PPPRoblemS!

If you’re not familiar with the Power Racing Series, it’s a challenge to build and race an electric vehicle. You start with a Power Wheels car and transform it into a powerful machine that can transport a human, and oh yeah, you have a budget of only \$500. (Pictured above is a car made by some 15 year old kids a few years ago for Maker Faire Detroit!)

You can find super-cheap (and even free) used Power Wheels cars on craigslist, and usually the batteries are dead and there’s no charger, which doesn’t matter, because we replace all that with more powerful motors, batteries, motor controllers, brakes, etc.

One of the goals of the series has been to get high school age kids involved, but some of the skills needed to build a car may be out of reach of your local high school, such as working with metal. Welding equipment may not be available, and mentors may not have metalworking skills, so we wanted to develop a reference vehicle that uses no welding. We chose to mainly work with wood for our build, but check out the “no-weld car” wiki page for some other builds…

Here’s the start of our frame. It’s all wood, glue, and screws. We’ve utilized a torsion box design for strength. So far we’ve only used a saw, drill, and some clamps. No specialty tools that are out of the reach of your common workshop. We’ve got a long way to go, but we’re going to try to make this car super-cheap, and easy to build, so that many teams (of kids and/or adults) could easily build it. As members of a makerspace, we may tend to forget that not everyone has access to the tools and skills we do.

We’re also working on front wheel spindles build using wood and bolts. Yes, you can buy metal spindles for cheap, but a lot of what we are doing is experimenting with materials and geometry, which should provide some valuable lessons along the way, and it should be cheap/easy to modify things, try-test-try again, and see what the outcome is.

You can check out more about this project on the Milwaukee Makerspace wiki. We’ll do our best to add updates as we go. Hopefully this thing will be ready to race in June at Maker Faire Kansas City!

## March232017

### Banker’s Box Storage Plans

For years, our makerspace has used a hodgepodge of solutions for storing members’ projects in progress and other personal belongings.  Most recently, we’ve used a dozen or so plastic totes.  The totes worked great, but were limited in quantity (they were industrial waste, and no more matching totes were available) so that not everyone could have one.  Additionally, these totes were slightly trapezoidal, which wasted quite a bit of space between them.

To that end, Ben and Kevin undertook a project to convert personal storage to standard Letter/Legal Banker’s Boxes, which are readily available and pack more densely.  They are a bit smaller than the totes we were using, but most members totes weren’t full, and we can store twice as many boxes in the same space.

Read on for full plans and assembly instructions.

Ben’s initial sketch was nothing fancy, so he drew it up in Sketchup, and developed a full cutting plan.  The entire shelving unit is 2 sheets of 23/32″ plywood and 2 sheets of 1/8″ MDF, both readily available at the local home improvement store.

The instructions below are split into “cutting” and “assembly”. Without going into painful detail, you’re going to need some power tools to make this project happen.  We used a table saw with a dado stack, a circular saw, an air nailer, and a router with flush trim bit, among other things.  You could certainly get by with less, but these plans were made and instructions written given the tools we had available. Without further ado, the instructions.

# Cutting Instructions

## Breaking down the sheet goods

First, using a circular saw and straight-edge (if your table saw setup is big enough to make these cuts, go for it, but you probably don’t need my instructions – just print the cut list and have at it).

• Trim the end off of Sheet 1 at 90-1/2″ and set it aside. This offcut will become the toe kick, but we’ll make that cut later on a table saw for accuracy.
• Cut Sheet 2 into two parts 42-3/4″ long, bringing the first six shelves to final length.
• Cut two sections off of Sheet 4 to become dividers. I chose to put the waste in the center and keep two factory edges, which means we can cut these pretty rough and clean the size up on the table saw later.

## Cutting shelves and dividers to depth

Next, set the table saw fence to 15-7/8″. Once this is set, don’t move it until absolutely necessary – we’ll be switching around between tools for a bit, but when we come back to the table saw, we’ll want our parts to be exactly this same length.

• Use this setup to rip one pair of shelves out of Sheet 1 and six more shelves out of the pieces from Sheet 2.
• Cut the pieces of Sheet 4 into strips, being careful to orient the material correctly (at a glance it doesn’t take much to get the pieces rotated 90 degrees).

## Cut the remaining shelves to length

Next, go back to the circular saw and cut the conjoined shelves from Sheet 1 to 42-3/4″ length.

Mount a 23/32″ or 3/4″ bit in the router and set the cut depth to 1/4″. Cut the grooves across the side panels every 12-1/4″, starting with the bottom of the first groove 4″ from one end of the panels. This end is now the bottom.

## Separating the sides

Back to the table saw, still set to 15-7/8″, and rip the side panels to their final width. We’re finally done with this fence setting.

## Finish the dividers

Now use the table saw to cut the divider panels to their final 11-3/4″ height.

Now we need to cut 1/8″ wide, 1/8″ deep dados in the shelves, starting 14-1/4″ in from each end. Six middle shelves will be grooved on both sides, but the top and bottom shelves only need grooves on one side. We can do this with a 1/8″ kerf blade in a table saw, using a miter gauge to support the parts, or with a router and a 1/8″ bit. The router is probably the safer option, but those tiny router bits are expensive, fragile, and slow.

## Building the toe kick

• Set the table saw for 4″ and turn the offcut from Sheet 1 into a toe kick.
• We’ll also want to cut it to 43-1/2″ length with a miter saw.
• Use a jig saw to cut a 4″ tall, 3-23/32″ deep (or 4″ deep for simplicity; nobody will know) notch into each side panel, making sure to make mirror images, not identical panels.

# Assembly Instructions

1. Apply glue to the dados in one side panel, and stand it up on end. If you stand it face-down (with the toe kick notch to the floor), Step 8 will be easier.
2. Nail or screw a shelf into one of the middle dados so the pieces will stand on their own.
3. Insert the remaining shelves into that side panel and nail them in place.
4. Position the second side panel and apply glue to the dados.
5. Stand the second side panel up and start guiding the shelves into position. It helps to have a second set of hands for this.
6. Nail the second side panel into the shelves.
7. Measure the diagonals and bump the case into square, then take a break for the glue to start setting up.
8. Apply glue to the back edges of the shelves and side panels. This is way easier if you built the shelf face-down.
9. Drop the (still oversized) back panel into position and nail it in place all around the outside of the cabinet.
10. Use a flush-trim router bit to cut the back panel to fit.
11. Flip the cabinet over, then glue and nail the toe kick to the side panels and bottom shelf.
12. Insert the dividers between shelves.
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